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Joint Fabrication Procedures for CONQUEST®
Flangeless Piping Systems with 1" to 4" PP, 1" to 4" PVDF/HFP, and
1" to 2" PFA Liners |
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The CONQUEST flangeless piping system from RESISTOFLEX Plastic-Lined
Piping Products is designed to eliminate from 50 to 99% of flanged
connections in your plastic-lined piping system. This not only
reduces the potential for fugitive emissions, it lowers maintenance
costs because there are fewer bolts to retorque. Also, monitoring
costs are reduced along with the costs for associated paperwork.
This bulletin explains joint fabrication procedures for CONQUEST
flangeless piping in 1", 1.5", 2", 3", and 4" pipe sizes with
polypropylene (PP) and polyvinylidene fluoride/hexafluoropropylene
copolymer (PVDF/HFP) polymeric liners. Additionally, fabrication
procedures are included for 1", 1.5", and 2" pipe sizes lined in
perfluoroalkoxy (PFA).
The CONQUEST flangeless joint is accomplished by butt-welding the
inner plastic liners of two pipe sections together. The outer steel
shells of both sections are then connected using a LOKRING**
mechanical coupling. These joints can be field-fabricated by a trained
distributor or by the end-user. With a few weeks notice, Resistoflex
technical personnel can conduct an on-site training and certification
program which will teach qualified personnel how to properly
fabricate CONQUEST flangeless joints. The following are detailed
instructions for fabricating these flangeless joints. Please read
through these instructions carefully before proceeding with fabrication. |
Table 1: Heater Plate Temperatures and Contact Times
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Liner Type (color)
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Pipe Size (inches)
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Heater Plate Temperature (°F/°C)1
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Contact Time to Form Bead (sec)
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Soak Time After Bead - No Pressure (sec)
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| PP (orange) |
1" - 4" |
450/218 |
10 - 15 |
75 |
| PVDF (black) |
1" - 4" |
450/218 |
10 - 15 |
75 |
| PFA2 (clear) |
1" - 2" |
750/399 |
15 - 30 |
90 - 105 |
1Adjustments to above temperatures may be necessary to
compensate for varying ambient temperatures or wind conditions.
Resistoflex recommends that you practice butt-welding several short
sections together in order to familiarize yourself with the operation
and to verify the welding parameters.
2For PFA, contact time and soak time must total 2
minutes.
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1. Using a George Fischer or Ridgid pipe cutter, make a 3/8" cut-back
on the CONQUEST plastic-lined pipe. THIS IS A CRITICAL DIMENSION.
PLEASE BE SURE IT IS ACCURATE.
NOTE: Cut-backs are not necessary on fittings because they are manufactured with
the liner exposed. |
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2. Using a cold chisel and hammer, remove the metal ring to expose the
inner plastic liner. NOTE: For cut-backs made on 1" pipe with Ridgid
pipe cutter, use the hammer and chisel to break the metal ring away
from the steel. |
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3. Install the proper inserts in the McElroy special number 14
butt-fusion welder for your pipe size. |

4. Slide the LOKRING coupling on the pipe. It is important to
remember to do this prior to welding the liners together because
the coupling cannot be positioned from the opposite end of a fitting
or MULTI-AXIS* bent spool. Vented couplings are used exclusively
with PFA liners. |
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5. Mount the McElroy welding unit on the pipe and tighten clamps
until snug. |
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6. For PFA, mount windbag over pipe and around McElroy welding unit.
THIS IS A CRITICAL PROCEDURE AND MUST NOT BE OMITTED, REGARDLESS OF
WEATHER CONDITONS. |

7. Set the length of the steel housing exposed from the inside
surface of the welder pipe clamp using the 5/16" set-back gauge supplied
with unit. Now firmly tighten the clamps.
8. Use a clean cloth to remove dirt, water, oil, or other foreign
matter from inside, outside, and ends of plastic liners. |
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9. Position the pipe facer tool between both stub ends and draw them
flush against the cutter. Square the pipe ends using the facing tool
supplied with the welder. |
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10. Visually check the pipe ends to make sure that they are aligned
with each other.
NOTE: If the outside diameter of plastic liner on one pipe end is
slightly larger than the other, pre-soak or pre-heat larger end for
10 to 15 seconds with heater plate. Do not apply pressure to plastic.
11. Measure the heater plate temperature using the temperature
pyrometer. See Table 1 for proper temperature. |

12. Insert heater between pipe ends. Bring ends in contact with heater
plates, apply light pressure to create a 1/32" melt bead.
13. After melt bead forms, allow plastic to heat soak for the duration
described in Table 1. Do not apply pressure during this time.
14. Carefully and quickly move pipe sections away from heater plates,
then remove heater.
NOTE: Do not drag heater plates across pipe ends as this could deform
the soft plastic. |
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15. Within 5 seconds of removing the heater and while the plastic is
still soft, bring pipe ends together. BE CAREFUL NOT TO SLAM THE ENDS
TOGETHER.
Apply pressure to form a uniform double-melt bead that
travels around the entire circumference of pipe. Lock tension arm on
welder to maintain pressure on newly formed joint.
16. Allow plastic to cool to room temperature before removing welding
equipment. To maintain system alignment and minimize stress on
welded joint, be sure to adequately support pipe section. |
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17. Using 6" metal ruler, measure the gap between the ends of steel
shells to ensure it is 3/8" (± 1/8").
NOTE: Width of ruler specified in the Tooling List is 3/8". This
dimension is critical for proper installation of the LOKRING coupling.
If the gap is greater than 1/2", it will be necessary to re-fabricate
the joint. |

18. Set a LOKRING coupling on top of steel shell and center coupling
groove on centerline of weld bead. Using a permanent marker, mark
each end of coupling on the pipe to show installation points. Set
coupling aside. |
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19. Slide the Lokring coupling that is on the pipe section into position
between your two installation marks. Attach a C-clamp at one end to hold
coupling in position. |
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20. For 1", 1/5", and 2". Place proper inserts into Lokring tooling for coupling size being
installed.
21. With Lokring tooling jaw fully retracted, slide tooling insert into
coupling groove located between coupling swage rings. |

22. For 1", 1/5", and 2". Actuate hydraulic unit to engage tooling jaw and allow swage ring
to move axially 1/2 to 2/3 of the distance to coupling flange in the
middle of the connector. |
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23. For 1", 1/5", and 2". Disengage tooling and remove C-clamp. Move tooling to other side of
coupling, rotate the tooling around the pipe 180°, and repeat Step
21. |
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24. For 1", 1/5", and 2". Disengage tooling and move it to other side of coupling. DO NOT
rotate tooling.
25. Actuate the hydraulic unit to engage tooling jaw and allow swage ring
to contact coupling flange. |

26. For 1", 1/5", and 2". Disengage tooling. Move it to other side of coupling, rotate the
tooling 180° around the pipe, and repeat Step 24. |
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27. For 3" and 4". Install the bottom 3" inserts, if required, and lock in place with
allen head screws. Note that the 4" size does not require a bottom
insert. Move the tooling into the fully retracted position. |
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28. For 3" and 4". Move the tooling into position beneath the
coupling such that the center of the coupling is aligned on top of
one of the tooling recesses.
Install the top inserts by retracting the spring-loaded locking pins,
slide the inserts into the frame, and releasing the pins until the
inserts snap into position.
29. Actuate the hydraulic unit to install the coupling. Relocate the
tooling to install the other half of the coupling. |

30. Check for proper installation of coupling. When a coupling is
properly installed, trailing edge of coupling body protrudes from
underneath swage rings, and swage rings butt against coupling
flanges. |
"This page is a machine translation of the source page, which is written in
English. This translation is intended to provide a general idea of the
page's content, and is not guaranteed for accuracy."
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